Day 7: Up the Dempster to Eagle Plains.

I am not sure if I was getting sick or if it was allergies but I felt like Hell. It could be the combination of  beer, whiskey and wine I consumed last night while making new friends at the campsite. I slept so good I didn't even hear my new neighbors come in. I tried to keep it quiet while packing up as not to wake them. As I was leaving the guy in the cot popped his head out and gave me a wave. It could have been "Small Hat" from RTB but I was already committed to leaving so I didn't stay and visit, I waved  and pulled on out.

The plan for today is to make it to Dawson City and get a camp site or possible a hotel room . Get a good nights sleep, Top of the tank, and head up the Dempster in the morning.

After awhile on the road I needed fuel and the fuel spots were far and few between. I stopped at the first one I saw and decided to grab a drink and a lite breakfast. When I went in the building there was a guy cooking in the back and a couple waiting on their breakfast. I sat down and waited. Most of the gas stations/Store/Tire Center/Diners are managed by 1 or 2 people . If they are busy you just have to wait. Eventually a girl came out in pajamas and house shoes and I asked her about breakfast and fuel. She took my order and said she would meet me at the pump after she put on proper shoes. The pump was locked and she couldn't figure it out so she had to go wake some one up . That person took over for the cook and he came out and got me set up. I am sure they were cussing me as it turned out to be quite the ordeal. Wanting to keep it lite and not feeling well I ordered a BLT. When the other couple got their food I saw the toast and told the lady that I really hoped my BLT wasn't on that bread. It was ..

 I was only able to finish a 1/4 of the sandwich . I packed the rest in a Gallon Zip Lock and strapped it to the back seat and got on down the road. After I passed a few bears I got to thinking , Here I am Riding through the Yukon with half a pound of fresh cooked bacon strapped to the back of the bike. It reminded me of a joke from the 80's about Evil Knievel, a Big Mac and Ethiopia . The first trash can I saw I pulled over. I ate the bacon and disposed of the rest. What a knuckle Head!

I had been told by multiple people that the Gas station located at the intersection of the Dempster and the Klondike Highway had burned. This is why I would have to pass the Dempster and go to Dawson City to fill up with fuel. When I got to the intersection I saw a self serve unmanned gas station that looked operational. It was just after lunch and the Artic Circle was only 250 miles down the Dempster. I was feeling a lot better and decided that if I could fill up I would go ahead and ride the Dempster now and get a hotel in Eagle Plains.

The Dempster starts out nice with a non graded, non slippery bridge and  the road didn't seem bad either. I am thinking in my head " This is the Mighty Dempster?"  Ha! I rolled on the throttle and was cruising right along at 60 MPH. I had been warned by multiple people that the shoulder was home to some very sharp rock and to stay away. Also, to watch where you pull over and stay in the car tracks to avoid flats. That was the plan.  I would make quick work of this.

 

 

 

So far it was beautiful . I had to really watch the road and adjust my speed as needed as not all areas of the road were safe for 4wheel travel at 60 MPH much less 2 wheel travel. I was about an hour in when the weather started to look sketchy. I have enough miles under my belt to know that you should put your rain gear on before It starts raining. I could see for miles so I didn't even pull over. I just stopped in the middle of the road , got off the bike and put on the gear right as it started.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It would continue to pour and lightning. It would take 5 or 6 hours to go the remaining couple of hundred miles .There was nowhere to get out of it and no place to go but continue on. What started as a nice ride through the Yukon  turned in to a slippery, sliding , muddy, dangerous , nightmare of a ride through the Artic Tundra. I saw 2 riders on BMWs going the other way right when the rain started and I had 3 cars pass me going in my direction. I was playing it safe , standing up and going slow. It was coming down so good that I couldn't see out of my visor and was too scared to continuously take my hand off the handle bars to wipe the visor so I rode with it up. I was miserable but wanted to get there in one piece. I didn't stop for any photos, bathroom breaks, or mess with my camel bac on the way. I was 100% focused on the road.

 

With lightning striking and me being the tallest thing for miles I was thinking about what I should do but had no answers other than keep going. My mind wondered to the hotel . What if he didn't have any rooms available? What if they were $300 or $400 a night? What am I willing to pay? I had seen a lot of bears was it safe to pull over and set up the tent if they were booked? Could I make it to the sign and back to Dawson safely? What if I stopped now? Should I turn around and abort the mission?

 

By the time I made Eagle Plains I knew there was absolutely no way I was going any further tonight and I sure as hell wasn't going back tonight. I was 20 miles from the Circle and wouldn't have tried to make it for the world. I was mentally and physically exhausted. It had stopped raining about 10 minutes ago and I was very happy.

 

 

When I pulled up there was a man painting the building. He told me to come see him later for fuel that he would be a round until 10PM. He said if I wanted a room to head to the bar. I headed to the bar where I found Mr. Cheerful. In a tone that made Mr. Monotone from the border sound like a happy guy Mr. Cheerful told me he had a room left and it was $160 Canadian (About $130 American). That was a steal! I would have paid twice that. I asked what time Restaurant closed and was told 9PM . I had 30 minutes

 

I was hungry so I headed for the room to get out of my gear and unload the bike. Then dinner. I walked in the restaurant where Mr. Cheerful was pulling triple duty. Bartender, Desk guy, and waiter. I ordered some pasta and a cold beer. As I sat there I started thinking that if I had to drive that road everyday I would probably be pretty grouchy too.

 

When I finished dinner I headed outside to get fuel. I pulled up to the pump where the guy was waiting:

Fuel Guy: Well, were surprised you made it!

 

Me: Huh?

 

FG: Yea, 3 cars came by earlier today said some Dumb Ass on a motorcycle was riding the Dempster in this storm and wasn't pulling over. You should have pulled over!

 

Me: Pull over? Where?

 

FG: In the Bushes

 

Me: Aren't there Bears and Moose in the bushes? I am pretty sure I saw bears and moose.

 

FG: Better to take your chances in the bushes with a bear than to ride the Dempster on the bike in the rain

 

About that time another guy walked around the corner

 

FG: Hey this is the guy they were talking about. He didn't pull over!

 

New Guy: He didn't pull over? Why didn't you pull over!

 

I was jus too tired. I wanted a shower and a bed. I wasn't even interested in another cold one. I would get up in the morning and head for the Sign.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NEXT DAY Day 8